U-Joint woes.........

[gtrsnax]

So, Im replacing my front axel u-joints. Nothing fancy or heavy duty, just getting the old rusted ones out. I think my drivers side has a retainer cap on it with no needle bearings in it, I mean there is a LOT of play in it. Thats......bad.
So today I thought I'd start to tackle it with the help of Stu-Offroad.com's write up as my guide.

I pulled the wheel off
I pulled the brake assembly off
I pulled the rotor off
I went to pull off the 3 bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the steering knuckle or something, they are 1. Torqued like hell and 2. Rusted so bad they've become part of the housing they screw out of. I mean, there is no seperation of the two parts for me to shoot any PB Blaster in it or anything.
The bolts are 13mm ends, but I had to put a 14mm socket on the end just to brush off the bulk of the rust. Then the 13mm wrench (12pt) fits on it, but I cant get the bolts loose.
I plugged in the air tools, and the impact wrench wont fit back there, so I tried the air wrench with a 6pt socket on it, and it wont fit on the bolt head. I dont see why not though. Am I just overlooking something?
I will DEFINITELY replace those bolts once they're removed.

So, as I stands........Im up the creek with 3 tires on, and unless I can get this done, my trip to RC and Paragon from the 16th tot he 19th is shot.

Suggestions........help?

Ideally, I'd rather go to a junkyard, and pull the front and rear off a newer 4 banger TJ, and then I'd have all newer, less rusty axels and the 4.10 gearing I want. All for........$400 or so right?

[rhowe02]

that sucks :bang: did you try heat, i have a torch that you can borrow, just let me know

[Misfit8]

I don't think you'll get lucky enough to get a D30 & D35 for $400.00 that's worth a poo from the junk yard, when you say wrangler they see $$$$$$$$$........

[gtrsnax]

Ok. Shit.

[danielj903]

I had to pull some of those not long ago too and mine were pretty damn tough too. I used about a foot and a half, 1/2 breaker bar with a 1" open close end wrench on the end of that. I thought I was going to have to go to the hospital when I finally broke torque on those things. I had to have another guy hold the axle down while I was doing it too, axle was off the vehical. Good luck, I hope you can get it.

[K9]

http://www.fostersmarket.com/PR/images/ms_coffeecake.jpg

I've replaced many hubs. Here are some quick helpful tips to make your experience a good one!

• When removing bolts, it's recommended you take the same approach as you do with torx. Find the EXACT size socket, and hammer it on.

• For some reason, I want to say these stupid things used E-Sockets (6-pt inverse Torx). It's been a while since I've wrenched on one. I just reread the post, so maybe???

• Said socket should be a 1/2" drive or larger. Find your largest craftsman ratchet or breaker bar and apply it. NEXT, take the handle off your hi-lift jack or from a 2-Ton floor jack. Use the handle as a breaker bar extension. Lock the steering wheel in a direction to your advantage. The Bolts will fight back, but you will win. Worse case scenerio is that the bolt heads break off, or you need to cut them off. Either way, you'll be replacing the hub. It's facing backwards, so remember to turn the right way.

• Wyn is a tool

• Once the bolts are out, rent a free tool for pulling hubs. It'll bolt onto the wheel studs, and have a sliding hammer built on. Sliding this hammer will YANK the hub out of the socket. It's rusted in with heat and corrosion. Although unlikely, the hub "may" rip in half and explode using this method, then you're stuck removing peices with a hammer. Regardless, it will all come out.

• If you learn anything from this experience, Anti-Sieze the whole hub before reinstalling, as well as the bolts.

:thumb:

[02tj]

yep! been there done that!

[IH8RDS]

• Wyn is a tool


:thumb:

Good Info Ian :thumb:

[danielj903]

Give us an update Tom, did you get it done?

[gtrsnax]

Hey, neat scorpion. Congrats! You're a dad x 5

Update - I've been spraying 'em down with PB when I leave for work and return from work lately.
I yanked the other wheel off today, so the whole axel is up on jack stands. This allowed me to turn the wheels to get to the bolts better. I got 2 of 3 loose on either side with some SERIOUS whacking on my little closed end 12 point 13mm wrench. Its the ONLY tool I have that is 12pt 13mm right now, so it's been a challenge.
The only ones I havent been able to get loose yet are the front lower bolts. They are in an awkward place to be able to hit with a BFH. I dont have much for a cheater bar that will fit over an open end wrench.
Another issue Im having is that the passenger side brake rotor disc wont come off, even with some "pursuasion". Damn rust. The good news is there is no play in that U-joint, but it's coming out whether it likes it or not anyway.
Thanx for asking, more updates as I go along.

[Misfit8]

Need a torque wrench for better leverage, come get mine and whatever else you need...........

[gtrsnax]

I cant get the fucker out. Yeah, it's rusted in there REAL good.
We tried the bench vise, and the c-lamp with the sockets on the end and all that stuff. It's been damn near hosed down with PB Blaster. No love. So, any suggestions? I'll be taking it to a machine shop or somewhere that has a shop press on Monday-ish unless someone else has an idea.
This means I wont be coming to the coffee run. Im bummed too, I havent been in a long time.

If the funds will allow it, I might as well just replace the whole thing. Anyone got spares for a D-30 I can buy?

[Misfit8]

You got that right............replace them for sure.

[gtrsnax]

After some bead blasting, these cleaned up quite nice. Now if I could just get the dam u-joints into them without getting a workout with a BFH I'd be happy.

[rhowe02]

drill, same idea as extracting a broking bolt. just a thought. if you are not in a hurry to get it done, i could take it to work and get it done.

[gtrsnax]

Thats a cleaned up one with a NEW u-joint in it. I had a LOT of trouble getting it in, so Im not looking forward to the other one. I already have the old ones out. Thanx for the offer though!

[Pat]

if you want you can bring it by my house, and between the 20 ton press, and my special u-joint tool, it can get done in no time.

[gtrsnax]

Thanx for the offer. Kyle.....in his best cool guy suit, came over today and Im all squared away. I have brakes and 4WD, what more could I ask for?

[Misfit8]

:thumb:

[danielj903]

That's great Tom :thumb:

[hecull]

This made for a really long day, but we actually didn't run into any big surprises, which is odd for wrenching on Tom's Jeep. :P

A word to the wise, coat every fastener you ever see while wrenching with anti-seize. You will thank me for it later and not even know it!

A good day, we got it all done.
Hope to see every one at the Coffee Run in the morning.
Kyle

[Misfit8]

Anti-seize is a wonderful thing........

[gtrsnax]

Rather than starting a new thread, figured I'd piggy back here.......

Tim, Kyle and I wrenched a little today, tried to replace drivers side axle u-jint on Kyles XJ.
Finally got it off, see pic 1

Then we replaced it by putting the new one into the Harbor Freight u-jint tool and air tools to run the post through. A bit too far I might add, see pic 2 heheheheheh. Blew the top right off. PYYYOOOIINNNGG!!!

[danielj903]

LOL...buzzard luck, everywhere you go Tom, buzzard luck.

[hecull]

Thank you so much Tom and Tim!
Too bad the XJ still doesn't stop :(
New Rotors, pads didn't help, but were due anyway so no harm done. Got both the hubs off, and replaced one U joint. Would have been two if I hadn't grenaded one.
Thanks again!
KO